The world of mechanical chronographs

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Noush
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The world of mechanical chronographs

Post by Noush »

I don't get to try on icons of horology very often but last weekend I had the new Speedy Moonwatch 3861 Hesalite on my wrist.
I liked it. But the price! With my resources - can't go there and I've thought it through a lot. It's not a function I actually have much use for, a dive watch bezel suits the kind of timing I have any need to do. But mechanical chronographs are COOL.

Up till now I have had 2 chronographs, both quartz, one I still have and it's a Pagani "Panda Daytona" that I bought because it was too cheap not to: USD 65. Owes me nothing. Thanks to a certain Swiss Giant, a good looking thing, with a Seiko Mecaquartz inside, and I'm happy to wear it to work 1 day a week most weeks. But - it is what it is, as they say.
Quartz chronographs do have a major advantage as far as my skinny wrist goes - they are small and especially they are much thinner than a typical mechanical.

SO. Something somewhat less expensive than a Speedy and not too thick then. CW's new offerings - C60 far too big for me and the C65 would be OK but I just don't like it. The 2VEV, well it's quartz, an LE and I have different fish to fry just now.
A 7750/7753/SW500 makes for a thick watch, don't want to know. A 2894 makes for a much friendlier option but it's modular and I keep reading/hearing about servicing issues. Does it matter? It's only an issue if the module needs work and it won't get much use so it's only about lubrication drying up near as I can tell. What's your take / experience with this? There's a number of nice chronographs about with modules inside and the price is do-able.

The left-field option is what I post a pic of. A Baltic with a Seagull ST1901 inside. Good looking watch! Movements are so cheap that if it comes to that, servicing doesn't really matter. Much prefer this watch to the odd-looking if famous 1963 which is also strangely thick.
Very interested in folks' observations and experience with this range of options.
BIC_Silver_3quart_SaffianoBlack.png
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Re: The world of mechanical chronographs

Post by monkeymax »

This is a very interesting thready for me! :) I have been looking at this a lot recently. I currently only have my standard 3 hander dive watches with me, and a Casio F-91W. I was in a situation at work - repeatedly - where I needed a chronograph and a second timing function (bezel). I wound up using my F-91W (and a piece of paper) or my phone. Admitedly, I'm in a rather niche position and I accept most people won't use the chronograph often, let alone both!

So I got to thinking a lot, perhaps it's time for a watch with diving bezel and chronograph. Which is also mechanical, as I don't have many mechanicals and there's definitely a beauty to them (I also have quartz chronos with fixed bezels at home, so have that base covered).

For me, there was one 'final' answer, having seen an older version on a colleague's wrist... A Chrono Seamaster
Image
For me, the dial layout on this piece is just perfect. Problem with that is that the 3330 is quite chunky meaning the watch is quite thick (I was fortunate to get to see one in person) and also, that price!

So then I thought about the C60 Chrono, which basically is the CW version of this Seamaster and is also a thing of beauty and probably also relatively affordable, but it also seems a bit thick. Saying that, I can definitely see a C60 Chrono in my future.

But I thought... What else is there?

I put together a list and came up with three final possible solutions. The first was the C60 Chrono - I just couldn't find anything fully mechanical to better it for value for money (and I'm not just saying that because of where I'm posting).

Otherwise I will end up with either, the Mechaquartz Unimatic U3-F
(being mechaquartz rather than full mechanical it's thin - and quite a looker IMO) or... A quartz Elliot Brown Bloxworth!

I basically wound up going full circle back to some form of quartz as, I think for a day to day watch I'd want it to not be >15mm thick. When I'm back in the UK I will get a C60 chrono to see what that's really like in person. Ironically the older Seamasters were also thinner than the current one with the 3330 movement, (and cheaper) so you could also look for something second hand to help scratch this itch!

Now, I appreciate all the above words don't answer your question as they have bezels. :lol: But it shows I'm keen to see what the answer is from all this.

I think, though, that the answer for you would be this:
The new Farer Carnegie. It does come in other colours, but I love a bit of colour on my watch (in fact, I wish CW still did too) and I think this has so much going for it:
Image
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Re: The world of mechanical chronographs

Post by Noush »

VERY interesting ideas there @monkeymax!
I hadn't really considered Farer, always thought of them as having one too many colours. And to my taste, the Carnegie reinforces that :)
But each to their own.
That said: the Moritz variation does appeal a LOT. A bit of the Longines Avigation Big Eye about that one, no bad thing, and absolutely the right kind of dimensions. Liking the manual wind movement too.
Not too many left of the 100 examples of the version though.

Good start!
MORITZCarousell_0006_Layer30_1024x1024.jpg
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Re: The world of mechanical chronographs

Post by Amor Vincit Omnia »

monkeymax wrote: Sun Apr 11, 2021 8:11 am ...I love a bit of colour on my watch (in fact, I wish CW still did too)
To be fair, I don't think you could accuse the C65 Chronograph of lacking colour.

However, Chris has already said he doesn't like it.


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Re: The world of mechanical chronographs

Post by Amor Vincit Omnia »

I'm not sure where your budget is at, Chris, but this beautiful thing by Longines is less than half the new Speedy in price:

Image

Image from Longines website

https://www.longines.com/en-gb/watch-th ... 629-4-92-0
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Re: The world of mechanical chronographs

Post by Noush »

I am across that Longines thanks Steve. It's one with the 2894 inside that I am trying to get inside the "wisdom" of.
And yes, the C65 Chrono just looks "off', too busy in the minute track and somehow lopsided to me. Which is a shame as my C65 Trident Diver wears so well.
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Re: The world of mechanical chronographs

Post by monkeymax »

How about a second hand Speedmaster Reduced? Though a quick look at Chrono24 shows me the prices of even those have gone up in the last couple of years, sadly. And the dial layout isn't quite as good as the professional but it's still a lovely watch.
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Re: The world of mechanical chronographs

Post by Thermexman »

Noush wrote: Sun Apr 11, 2021 10:16 am And yes, the C65 Chrono just looks "off', too busy in the minute track and somehow lopsided to me.
Not keen then? :lol:
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Re: The world of mechanical chronographs

Post by Noush »

Umm, nah :) A big miss for me. Tried a bit too hard to be cheerful/bold.
The C60 "Bumblebeast" however looks fantastic but not a snowflake's chance in hell my wrist could pull it off.

Here's another 2894-based watch (like that blue Longines) that I rather fancy. But again, are modules a good idea?
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Re: The world of mechanical chronographs

Post by Thegreyman »

An auto chrono I think is a difficult watch to find in a small case at a reasonable price. I have a 1980's Hamilton 7750 chrono which is a great 39.5mm size and not too thick.

Image

For you I'd suggest you look at the latest Hamilton intra-matic chrono, 40mm and c. 14mm so not too thick.

https://monochrome-watches.com/hamilton ... etro-vibe/

Hamilton-Intra-Matic-Auto-Chrono-Blue-H38416541-6.jpg
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Re: The world of mechanical chronographs

Post by Noush »

Oh that's a good shout, Patrick. I've seen Teddy's positive review.
49mm L2L really pushes my comfort zone (seemed OK on Teddy and we have the same wrist size, but only OK) and I'd really have to try it on. Chances of doing that in this part of the world? Nil. But I like the watch and my 38mm Khaki Field Auto is a collection stalwart. Fan of the brand.

That Farer Moritz is ticking a bunch of boxes the more I look into it.
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Re: The world of mechanical chronographs

Post by ajax87 »

I’ll second Patrick on the Hamilton intramatic. I have a very slim wrist and it does just fine for me. Here’s a shot of it on a 6” wrist:
B26F4D56-B112-47C0-9AA0-86C4ACB77184.jpeg
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Re: The world of mechanical chronographs

Post by Thunder1 »

For 'affordable' good looks, yet another vote for the Hammy 'Intra-matic' series..I like the 'Baltic' as well as it captures the Art Deco vibe nicely...you might want to give some thought to the Junghans Meister & Max Bill Valjoux 7750 offerings..40mm wide and while not particularly 'short', their 'bowl shaped' under casing allows them to rest on the wrist very comfortably..and they are quite the success in capturing the Bauhaus look..
Junghans MaxBill chronoEta7750(1).JPG
Junghans Meister Chrono(3).JPG
And if you could consider 'previously loved', you can pickup Ebel Le Modulor chronos anywhere from $1,200.00-$2,500.00 on Ebay...made 10 to 15 years ago, the case size is a comfy 40mm & they are not tall, at all..they feature a Chronometer tested in-house movement(cal. 137) and one of the most comfortable bracelets in the business..even if they need servicing, very much worth it, imo..I own several..here's one, but not on a bracelet..
Ebel 1911 Chrono cal.137 bluedial(3).JPG
Good luck hunting!!.. :D
Ebels are a lot like women that lack a lowcut dress that zips up the side..neither gets the love that they deserve..
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Re: The world of mechanical chronographs

Post by Bahnstormer_vRS »

Noush wrote: Sun Apr 11, 2021 9:21 am VERY interesting ideas there @monkeymax!
I hadn't really considered Farer, always thought of them as having one too many colours. And to my taste, the Carnegie reinforces that :)
But each to their own.
That said: the Moritz variation does appeal a LOT. A bit of the Longines Avigation Big Eye about that one, no bad thing, and absolutely the right kind of dimensions. Liking the manual wind movement too.
Not too many left of the 100 examples of the version though.

Good start!

MORITZCarousell_0006_Layer30_1024x1024.jpg
Having read your initial post my gut reaction was that I would be suggesting you look at hand wound chronos, on the simple premise that by ditching the automatic element you are saving weight and, more importantly, it will easily be 2mm - 4mm slimmer.

The Farer Moritz you've found is a slam, dunk choice for this and a very attractive watch.

From a similar stable you could perhaps look at the Marloe Atlantic the R34 version being especially stylish.

Of the CW chronos I've had or got the best to fit your remit would be the C1000 Typhoon FGR4. Lightweight due to its ceramic / titanium case & chassis and, at 14.7mm relatively slim for a 7750 Automatic (picture of the 'RAF' version, with RAF tactical roundel in the 6 o'clock subdial).

Image

Finally, to offer you some inspiration, you might like to look at the Week of the Chronograph thread from October last.

Happy hunting.

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Re: The world of mechanical chronographs

Post by Noush »

Good shout to have a look again at that thread, Guy. Inspirational indeed.
There's something about a mechanical (in particular) chronograph that makes these watches something that other watches can't be. More elements to introduce in different ways.

For sure the Farer Moritz is the slam-dunk when it comes to ticking almost ALL the boxes. The out of left field surprise here. Trigger-happy...

The Longines Avigation Big Eye is one I want to look at and I've spoken to an AD that has the fancier, more expensive titanium version at hand, which apart from weight will wear the same as the steel one. It's at the big end of what I think I can pull off, have to try it. But it has the Longines version that relates to the Omega 3330: column wheel, vertical clutch and 66 hour PR. Longines may not be what once it was, but it's a brand that still means something to me.
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